Guide :Saws : DW746X 10" woodworker's table saw with rai

Husqvana saw Purchased a Husq without bar or blade, boought both an put on saw, blade turned but as i tightned the cover nut the blade did not move ,whats wrong

Posted by Charles Wincer on Dec 11, 2007

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Husqvarna's built-in chain ... put back cover on saw should fit if blade in ... to the imprints markings on the saw handle pivot axis nut (and to the Husq ...
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Suggested Questions And Answer :


Husqvana saw Purchased a Husq without bar or blade, boought both an put on saw, blade turned but as i tightned the cover nut the blade did not move ,whats wrong


Looks like you need a better explanation of what's going on here.
Read More At : DW746X 10" woodworker's table saw with rai...

My saw problem has to do with changeing the blade. I'm useing a thin kirf blade. When I change the blade I have to put a wrench on the arbor next to the pulley to keep the arbor shaft from turning when I loosen the nut to remove the blade. I try to put a block of wood in the teeth of the blade to hold it while loosening the arbor nut with the wrench. The arbor nut turns with the arbor shaft and the blade doesn't move. I've used this blade for a few years without a problem. When I use my dadoe stack it does the same thing. The arbor shaft turns with the arbor nut when trying to loosen the nut to remove the stack. Any suggestions on what to do or whats happening?


The nut is binding on the arbor because the threads are buggered up or clogged with something. It could be the nut (which is probably brass and soft) or the arbor (which is steel). If it got a little cross threaded, the damage will be on the nut. It might be the arbor if the arbor took a whack. Once you have it apart you should be able to see it - although the damage might be pretty small. You aren't likely to have a tap and die to run through the threads, but you can probably fix it with a little rotary tool (like a dremel) using a small disc. If it is the arbor you can use a triangular file. Or you can buy a new nut. I hope this helps.
Read More At : 10" Table Saw...

When I try to change the blade on my table saw the shaft moves when I try to loosen the arbor nut. I am blocking the saw blade from moving


I had the same problem with my black and decker table saw.The shaft goes through the motor and there is a groove for a screwdriver to hold the shaft in place.Once the shaft is stationary the arbor nut can easily be removed
Read More At : BDTS200 15-Amp Table Saw with Stand and Wheels...

Blade and motor not stable after replace belts


If you mean there is vibration that moves the unit, check thaat the bllade is PROPERLY indexed on the mandrel. Sometimes they can get off center.
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Recently I cleaned and lubricated my 4 year old Craftsman cast iron table saw. I did such a good job that I created a problem which I never had. When I am running with a dado blades, the arbor will slowly receded into the table saw. The vibration lowers the blade. I have not noticed this with a single blade. Is there a way to bind the arbor so that it will not move? I have to hold the adjustment wheel and move the wood at the same time, not too safe.


There should be a locking knob on the front of the crank or a locking collar behind the crank depending on which model or age of the saw that you need to tighten down to lock the arbor height.
Read More At : 10" Table Saw...

10'' table saw binding?


Sounds like you lost a spacer that goes behind the first flange against the motor bearing, you could use a lock washer if you bend it flat. Assemble: spacer washer, first flange, blade, second flange, nut. I think the first flange is rubbing the motor housing.
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Blade Alignment? While ripping a piece of wood on my Dewalt 744 table saw the blade and splitter become tight against the finished side of the board. the long the piece the tighter it gets. the blade and fence seem to be parallel. but some thing is misaligned. The piece of wood jams in between the fence and the blade at the back of the blade. Tried to adjust the two 10 mm bolts but that didn't help. The fence is perfectly square with the miter gauge slot. When I move the fence to the blade, the fence hits the back of the blade with a 3/16 inch gap remaining at the front of the blade. I thought these saws were calibrated at the factory. Can someone help?


Ok yep your blade is out of alignment with the fence. It is closer to the fence at the rear than the front. You need to make the modification or adjustment to your fence, if it allows that, and then worry about the miter slots later (which should be adjusted miter slot to blade, not miter slot to fence). You might be able to adjust the miter slot to blade by moving the actual table and then securing witht he table mount bolts. Check your manual for how to align the fence. You do want to fix that though as it can be potentially dangerous and result in kickback of the workpiece which is a rather SCARY thing, and very dangerous.
Read More At : DW744S 10" Portable Table Saw with Stand...

Two wrenches that came with my Dewalt field table saw, presumably for changing blades. I assumed that the open-ended wrench was meant to stabilize the blade while I unscrewed the bolt holding the blade in place. I put the open-ended wrench under or behind the blade and turned the blade until the wrench slid into place and locked the blade in place. Wedging the stabilizing wrench against the frame, I attempted to turn the bolt; it wouldn't bulge. I sprayed the bolt with W-40, letting it sit over night. No luck. I sprayed with W-40 several more times. It wouldn't budge. Deciding the wrench for turning the bolt didn't deliver enough torque, I tried a longer wrench. Each time I applied pressure, the saw moved about a quarter turn, then kicked the stabilizing wrench out of position. Is there a secret I'm missing here?


The bolt is left hand thread?? Most holding blades are left hand thread so that normal rotation keeps them tight. So you may be turning the bold the wrong way (Tightening instead of loosening)
Read More At : DW744S 10" Portable Table Saw with Stand...

After reassembly blade will not cut wood, does not maintain suffient tension despite being correctly inserted


It sounds like the blade is not going through the guides properly if the blade is being pushed away from the wood. Your blade is facing and moving the right direction, I am assuming.
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