Guide :Saws : JT160 Shopmaster 10 Amp 6 Inch Benchtop Jointer

Delta shopmaster saw blade stuck down and won't go back up

I am using a borrowed saw that I am using to cut interior trim. The saw arm is stuck down and won't go back up. Any suggestions? I have looked all over it to see if it has a switch or something.

Research, Knowledge and Information :


Delta Power Equipment Corporation - FAQ Search Results


... but does not move up and down with the blade. ... Why won't the blade lower ... are parallel to your table saw blade.Measure from the back of the blade ...
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DELTA BS100 Shopmaster 9-Inch Bench Top Band Saw


DELTA BS100 Shopmaster 9-Inch Bench ... then go back to the seller and ... It also has a thin kerf so you won't overtension the saw. This blade will also make ...

DELTA MS250 INSTRUCTION MANUAL Pdf Download.


View and Download Delta MS250 instruction manual online. 10 ... Saw Delta ShopMaster 638518 ... Fig. 5 MOVING CUTTINGHEAD TO THE UP POSITION 1. Push down on ...
Read More At : www.manualslib.com...

DELTA MS250 Shopmaster 10-Inch Compound Miter saw


Find helpful customer reviews and review ratings for DELTA MS250 Shopmaster 10-Inch ... for the saw to go ... blade Laser - I was easily able to line up the ...

Delta MS250 Type 1 Miter Saw Parts - eReplacementParts


Won't turn on. 43%. Guard binds. 35% ... Discussion for the Delta MS250 Type 1 Miter Saw . Post a ... I need to put the saw blade back in saw but i am having trouble ...
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How to Unlock a Miter Saw - Best Rated Miter Saw


How to Unlock a Miter Saw. ... which is located at the back of the tool, controls the blade’s up and down movement while the ... it means that the guard is stuck or ...
Read More At : mitersawjudge.com...

Table Saw Blade Won't Raise - LumberJocks.com


I just started having a problem with my Delta table saw today ... After about 20 times up and down it won’t move! ... Now the blade is stuck in the up position no ...
Read More At : lumberjocks.com...

Suggested Questions And Answer :


Delta shopmaster saw blade stuck down and won't go back up


Sounds silly, but on the right side there is a blue knob.Push down on the saw handle and pull out the blue knob. That should release the saw arm.
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Need manual for Delta 10'' compound power miter saw MS 250


If you can't print from your computer, or local library, find a local print shop or copy shop that is willing to download and print a .pdf file for you. Then go to this link and you'll be able to download a pdf file with the manual you're seeking: http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manual/Delta/A05737.pdfIf this solves your problem, please take a second to rate this post and let us know! Best wishes!
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Infeed Table leveling


Well, the infeed table is supposed to be lower than the outfeed table. This is how the jointer actually removes material to flatten a face or board edge. What is important is that the the outfeed table is level with the top of the cutterhead blades, so as you push material through the cutterhead, the outfeed table fully supports the workpiece. The infeed table is supposed to be adjustable up and down to remove different amounts of material. If both infeed and outfeed tables were aligned, no material would be cut (assuming the outfeed was aligned with top of the blades).
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Owners manual - Delta JT160 Shopmaster 10 Amp 6 Inch Benchtop Jointer


Here is a link that should have it. Good luck http://www.manualsonline.com/support/delta
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Manual for Delta Shopmaster 6" Jointer


Go to Dewaltservicenet.com and in the middle of the page towards the bottom type in your model number. It will take you to another page and click on the first JT160 and when it changes screens click on the instruction manual, I had to click on it a couple times to open it but I did look at and it is about 48 pages long. Let me know if you have any problems and I will check further
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Need manual for Jointer


Go to this link and you'll find a complete parts diagram, list, and pdf manuals for your jointer. Dewalt service net I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread. If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take a moment to kindly rate this post....thanks!
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My JT160 Delta Shopmaster Benchtop Jointer skips. The speed fluctuates.


This sound like a bad commutator in the motor - if you're lucky then it's just the brushes. As the motor turns, the brushes push against metal contacts on the commutator. The brushes provide an electrical path to the commutator. The commutator is a bunch of electro magnets (remember wrapping wire around a nail and putting electricity to it to make a magnet? that's what's on the commutator). So as the motor turns, the brushes connect to different contacts - but if that contact is bad, then no electricity can flow. So the first contact may be good (30 degrees of the motor works fine), but the second contact is bad (30 degrees of the motor turned off), then the third contact is good (30 degrees of the motor back to fine again). You can try to fix this if you're mechanically inclined and want to take the motor apart. Remove the motor entirely from the jointer. Open both ends of the motor (usually 3 or 4 really long screws going through the motor to join the ends). The brushes are usually spring loaded and can shoot out, so go slowly and look inside while you open it up. The brushes should be at least 1/2 inch long (if they are shorter than that then replace them). Also look for sawdust - if your motor is jambed full of sawdust you may just need to clean it out. Once you have the motor fully apart - the commutator is that bulk of the shaft, with lots of wire wrapped around it, and one end having metal contacts (where the brushes ride). Examine the contacts closely - if one is bad (broken or missing) then you HAVE to get a new motor - no way around it. However, when they put the contacts onto the shaft, they use lots of epoxy/glue. This is what is between the contacts (from side to side). As the brushes move around on the contacts, they also ride on the glue - this can "smear" the glue from between the contacts to actually cover the contacts. If this is the case you can use 600 grit sandpaper to clean the contacts. I would also cut the glue between the contacts so it sits lower than the contact surface (take an old hack saw blade and brake it in half - the width of a hack saw blade is usually the same width as the distance between the contacts - lightly saw the glue between the contacts until it's lower than the contact surface). While the motor is apart, check the bearings - if the bearing are bad, the shaft can "flop" back and forth and might make the brushes skip over a contact. If it's a bearing you can usually get a number off of the side of the bearing and find new ones (search for the part number on google - bearing are about $2-$4). I'd also check the belt the goes from the motor to the jointer shaft - I like those powertwist belts because they don't deform and induce vibrations.
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Looking for blades for a 6 inch craftsman Jointer/planer. Model number 103 2066. Manufactured by King Seely. Sears Roebuck do not have but I am wondering if there is are generic blades that will fit. (I put in the wrong product as this seems to be the only way to post the problem)


Most reliable sharpening services will be able to grind knives for your jointer that will work just fine. The key is to match the existing knives as far as thickness (guage) and height of the new knives. You want them to give you maximum life but not extend too far past the cutterhead when adjusted all the way down. I don't know about your machine, but on an 8" powermatic the tip of the knife shouldn't extend more than about .0012" above the circumference of the cutterhead. You can check this with a set of calipers and give the height to the sharpener, then just choose high speed steel or carbide and you're on your way. If you check the overall length of the knives, sometimes they are slightly under the nominal length, and a 6" long knife could bump into the housing as the cutterhead rotates, so this is one other thing to check before you go ahead and order them 6" long. But the short answer is, no problem. Just get a reliable sharpener to make them for you, buy a quality steel blank, and have him put a fine grit polish or hone on the knives when he sharpens them... I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread. If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!
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Jointer doesn't run smoothly


My bet is that the motor is designed for 220/240 (single or three phase), but you're running in on 110 single phase. If the belt were slipping it would sound like the belt on a car (you know when someone starts their car and belt is loose and goes "Sccrreeeeeee" until the rev the engine and make the belt catch up to the pully). The power in wood working motors is such that it should be very difficult to slow down the motor if you're feeding at a slow rate. But, if the motor needs 220 and you're powering with 110, then the motor will have no power (the magnets in the motor are matched with the voltage - and if you have the wrong voltage you won't get any power and the speed will be very slow). Typically the "home" or "residential" tools only run on 110, but if you have a larger unit they can be wired for 220 or 110. If you bought the planer used, they may have been running with 220 and now you're powering with 110 (or vice versa). I'd do a quick google search for your unit to see what it's capable of. Or, just take the model number of the motor (not the planer) and search for that. Typically, motors can be run at 110 or 220 for larger wood working tools. Inside the metal housing where the wire feeds into are a number of wires to connect to. These wires have numbers on them (either a tag or printed on the wire insulation) and you attach them a certain way for 110 and a different way for 220. Sometimes you can even change the direction of the motor - SO BE CAREFULL IF YOU REWIRE IT! don't power it up all the way on the first try. Just start it and then stop it while the motor is still coming up to speed. While the planer is still spinning (even though the motor is off) feed your board in slowly and you'll be able to tell which way the motor is spinning. If you get the wrong direction on your motor you can shoot boards across the shop (or out into the street if you're in the garage - like I did).
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Looking for blades for a 6 inch planer model # 103.1801


Go to this site for partshttp://performancetoolcenter.com/jt160.html
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