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Blade Adjustment 10 inch Dayton commercial table saw: the blade is not square to the track guides. ie: the in-feed (front) is almost a 1/4 inch closer to the right guide:: and the out-feed (back) is closer to the left guide. the blade is not bent and the spindle is not bent. I do not have a manual so at this time I have not tried to make any adjustments. This was a low useage machine when I recived it

Posted by johnhwest01 on Nov 18, 2008

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Suggested Questions And Answer :

Blade Adjustment 10 inch Dayton commercial table saw: the blade is not square to the track guides. ie: the in-feed (front) is almost a 1/4 inch closer to the right guide:: and the out-feed (back) is closer to the left guide. the blade is not bent and the spindle is not bent. I do not have a manual so at this time I have not tried to make any adjustments. This was a low useage machine when I recived it

If you mean the fence it is adjustable , if not the fence please clarify
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I'm trying to rip a 1/2 inch strip off a board. The strip starts out 1/2 inch but ends 3/4 inch over 8 feet. The guide is tight and parallel to the blade. There are circular burn marks on the strip. I have tried two different blades. What's wrong.

The guide is slipping even though it feels tight. You may need to use a supplemental C clamp or equivalent
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Straight cutting with rip fence

When i use my table saw, i use clamps on the fence, i dont rely on the one built in.
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Blade needs changing. nut is hard to get at

With the saw unplugged, retract the guard with the base plate extended so there is minimum teeth showing below. Place the blade of your saw on your wood top workbench. Press it down. Using the wrench that came with the saw or other appropriate size box or open end wrench or socket, turn the nut backward (this is a left hand thread not standard right hand thread). It will be tight. Alternatively, there may be a shaft lock that you can press to lock the shaft to facilitate unbolting the blade. Alternatively, there mau be a small hole in the blade. Insert a phillips screw driver in the hole to facilitate blade removal. Key is knowing the thread is backward to what you expect. The reason for this is to cayse the nut to tighten as you turn on the saw, not loosen. When you put on the new blade, make sure the nut is properly secured. I hope this is clear for you. If you have need for more information, please post a comment to this quesiton thanks for your interest in Please vote thanks a
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When making a straight cut with my bandsaw, the blade will

Before tuning it up, loosen the guides and wheels away and square the table to the tensioned blade. Then follow these steps in order: First, adjust the upper wheel so the blade is tracking at the center or just to the front of center of the wheel tire. (You can see this with the cover removed, and adjust it with the nut/wing nut in the back). Now, make sure the blade guides are adjusted so they don't deflect the blade to either side (when looked at from the front), so they contact the blade just behind the gullet of the teeth, but not against the hooked teeth themselves, and are just tight enough to allow the blade to run freely (including the weld). (If your guides are worn and out of flat, you may wish to dress them on a sander before adjusting them against the blade.) Adjust the guides both above and below the table. At this point, ensure that the guide bar moves up and down easily and locks into position without torqueing the guides against the blade. Finally, adjust the bearings behind the blade, so they just kiss it, and turn freely when you revolve the bandsaw wheel. They will support the back of the blade when pressure is applied against it during a cut, and help immensely to keep the blade tracking straight. At this point, check the cut by trying to follow a straght line penciled on a board. Some blades will naturally tend to veer slightly on a diagonal, depending on how they are sharpened, and you may have to adjust your fence to compensate for this "drift". But if you follow the steps outlined above, and have a good sharp blade to begin with, you should be able to split a line. If you follow these tips and they prove helpful, please let us know your problem is solved. Otherwise, give us a little more detail and someone will be happy to follow up.
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Bought saw about 5 yrs ago along with 15'' planer. I imediately noticed the effort to raise the blade was really excessive. I assumed it was well made and simply tight. I did not get better, at all. Spoke to an engineer at pM, who advised it would loosen in time but to squirt some wd-40 on the binding area and, over time, it would improve. Well, it has been years, with no improvement, at all. Frankly, I'm barely able to raise the blade at all, without help from a stronger person. I'm 68 now and don't feel I should have to deal with it any longer. The saw is an has been for home/shop use only so IT will never get, what you call, a real work out...not ever....I MAKE SPLIT BAMBOO FLY RODS,,,,have lots of tools, all working nicely, except the blade lift situation. Can some one help? I'm at my wits end with this. I'VE TRIED EVERYTHING that was suggested several times with no success. HELP...HELP....THIS WAS A GIFT FROM MY WIFE, ALONG WITH THE 15'' JOINTER. FOR XMAS. YUP, I'm a lucky guy, for sure. But I need to be able to say the product really delivers.

I would get a can of spray silicone, and soak all moving parts, that apply to that mechanism with it, and work it in good, it may just help. I would think that if the silicone doesn't do it, then something is obviously too tight at assembly or manufactured improper. If you could give me make & model, I may be able to find an exploded view of mechanism & help determine where binding may be occurring.
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Dewalt 10 inch portable table saw blade height adjustment very st

What I would do is clean area with air (wear safety glasses) then I use a spray type of dry lubricant on the threads and also the plates that the motor slides on. You can also use WD-40 in a pinch. Hope this helps
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Unable to make a straight cut with saw. Tried adjusting tension, lowered blade, made sure blade aligned properly and did not feed too quickly. HEEEEEELLLLLLLLLLLPPPPPP! Thanks in advance.

Hello, I think that the problem you are having is called "drift" . each blade will cut different than the last. The way I was taught to cure this goes as follows. -take fence off off table(or just move over) -get a good square piece of material appx. 1x3 and mark a straight line about 1/2" from edge the full length of the board. -with out the fence cut the board along the line appx. 1/2 the length. -shut off saw WITH board in it. -use a angle finder along the edge of the board, set angle finder -remove board and put the fence back on. -now slide the angle finder up to the fence, you should see that the angle is different than the fence (this is the DRIFT ), adjust the fence to the angle finder( I know that the smaller saws usalley don't have this adjustment ) you will have to find a way i.e. shim etc. This is a very common problem but once you get the idea it is a easy fix Remember: A guy taught me and I taught you, pass it along thats what we do.LOL Hope it helped. The Shop Dog
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Makita "7 1/4 inch" circular saw poblem. the saw seems to lose power soon into ripping boards. if you letit sit andcool, it will work again, but will quickly cease upagain. the saw blade seems to go askew when ripping boards at an angle, and quickly gets jammed. i've had it in to the repairman twice, both times they just tried to make me feel like i dont know what im doing. i use a mechanically/electrically identical milwaukee saw for these exact tasks on the same exact electrical circuit. i am clueless, anything like this ever come up?

Clean the armature and install new brushes, the armature is burned with carbon and loses its ability to conduct electricity properly. Make sure to in between every copper rib on the armature so it doesn't ground itself back out.
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Model #113.24201 The saw blades come off and take the rubber tracking wheels off in the process. Have tried all recommended adjustments from owners manual.  Have tried resetting all thrust guides, and blade guides along with top tracking screw.  Have also tried several different blades.  It will appear to track fine until you start it and let it run shortly the blade will work either to the inside or outside of the top or bottom wheel and come  off taking the rubber with it.

It's not tracking correctly. I've not worked on one of those little saws since a shop mate had a black & decker model about 15 years ago, but I'm guessing there's a problem with the tires themselves. They are either not seating properly, causing the blade not to ride correctly, or the blade tension is all wrong, (or some combination of the two). But I have never seen tires get pulled off by a mistracked blade; that alone sends up a big flag for me. There is another post I located with a similar problem with the same saw, so maybe Sears had some issues with some of the tires, but apparantly the forum that hosted it has taken it down, so I can't tell you what her results were. I'd suggest, since you've gone through all the obvious, that you might get some quality replacement tires for a start, check the bearings on the wheels for play. If that doesn't help, you may have exhausted the capacity of that particular saw. I remember getting that little B&D dialed in occasionally, but it would only work for relatively thin cuts, and eventually we pretty much gave up on it and used it only for installations. Good luck. I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread. If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!
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