Guide :Saws : Portable Saw Cut-Off Wheel TM 12 x 1/8 x 1 BRUTE

Use of a Sait Cut abraise wheel to cut PVC Pipe

A contractor was using a abrasive wheel A24R-BF to cut PVC Pipe. The wheel is designated for steel cutting. Is this an appropriate product for cutting PVC. I recently was involved in an incident where a worker lost an eye when a wheel ,of a competitor, designed for "Steel", broke and knocked the safety glasses into the workers eye.

Research, Knowledge and Information :

SAIT Thin High Speed Cut-Off Wheel, 4" x .035", 3/8" Arbor ...

SAIT Thin High Speed Cut-Off Wheel, 4" x .035", 3/8" Arbor, Type 1. Features aluminum oxide abrasive, resin bond, high-strength reinforced construction.
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3 Ways to Cut PVC Pipe - wikiHow

May 10, 2016 · How to Cut PVC Pipe. Making projects out of PVC pipe will often require the pipe to be cut. ... Table Saws: Never use a table saw to cut PVC pipe.
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Tips on Cutting PVC Pipe: 4 Steps -

Tips on Cutting PVC Pipe ... My dad taught me to use this to cut pvc. ... A hacksaw is OK but always runs away from a right angled cut; cutoff wheel is OK, ...
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Sait 12" x 1/8" Ductile Portable Saw Cut-Off Wheel - 10 pk ...

The Sait Ductile Portable Saw Cut-Off Wheel features a combination aluminum oxide and silicon carbide formulation. The wheel is ideal for use on ductile pipe (very ...
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If I buy myself a Dremel, will it cut PVC? - Reef Central ...

Stick the pipe in twist down on the cutting wheel and turn, ... If I buy myself a Dremel, will it cut PVC? Yes, it can, but do it slowly in order not to melt the PVC.
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CUT OFF WHL 14X1/8X1 23501 SAIT - Mine & Mill Industrial ...

cut off whl 14x1/8x1 23501 sait . ... pvc pipe fittings; ... cut-off wheel 14x1/8x1 23501 hobo 5,400 max rpm hobo for use on high hourspower machines ...
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United Abrasives-Sait Cut Off Saw Blades - Sears

United Abrasives-Sait Cut Off Saw Blades 52 items ... 23184 7" Type 1 Ceramic Abrasive Cut-Off Wheel, ... for quickly getting through dimensional wood or PVC pipe.
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Cutters & Cutter Wheels | Reed Manufacturing

Cutters & Cutter Wheels ... easy-to-use Universal Pipe Cutter models cut 6” - 48” ... cast iron, clay, concrete, steel, PVC, or PE pipe.
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Suggested Questions And Answer :

Use of a Sait Cut abraise wheel to cut PVC Pipe

I worked at a tool rental business while going to college and became familiar with OSHA requirements as it pertains to construction. There is an old saying that if you follow the rule-book by the letter things will quickly come to a grinding halt. I checked on OSHA web site and could not find anything on you question. I recall that using the correct blade only results in a cleaner cut, however there is the possibility that the pvc material can load-up on the blade and cause jambing. An inspection of the blade will answer this. More important is that all safety items are in place like the blade guard and that all workers in the vicinity of the saw are wearing eye protection. We used Norton brand abrasive blades and the following is their guide. APPLICATION GUIDE: Concrete: For concrete/masonry - silicon carbide specification for brick, block, concrete, and other masonry materials.Metal: For metal/steel - aluminum oxide specification for mild steel, stainless, and metal decking.Asphalt: For use when cutting mostly asphalt.Asphalt / Green Concrete: For asphalt and green concrete - silicon carbide in coarse grit range. For high performance, hot pressed wheels provide significantly longer life.Ductile: For ductile iron and cast iron pipe - formulated with a special blend of silicon carbide (for cutting) and aluminum oxide (for long life). This specification is also suitable for cutting PVC. Hope this helps, enjoy
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Cut off question

Here a few examples: * 5 inch trim saws, usually with a fine-toothed blade and often with the blade located on the left side of the motor, for easy viewing of the blade path. These are available in 120V, AC models, and rechargeable battery models in various DC voltages. * 6 1/2 inch saws, as shown in the illustration above, used for cutting to length nominal lumber for construction, as well as ripping lumber, and cutting plywood or composite material. * 7 1/4 inch saws, often call skillsaws, from the name of a major circular saw manufacturer, Skill. These are the backbone of the construction industry, used for cutting lumber up to 2 1/4 inch thick. They are used for cutting framing lumber to length, and ripping lumber. They also have a number of optional blades which can be used for cutting composite materials, concrete, ferrous and nonferrous metal sheeting, pipe, tubing, and even cold-rolled steel bar stock. * 8 and 10 inch saws, used for cutting to length larger lumber or timbers, up to 4 inches thick. These are heavier, more cumbersome tools used mostly in industrial work. * Worm-drive saws have a gearbox with a worm-geardrive, and are found in 7 1/4 inch models which are most commonly used for ripping lumber or cutting plywood decking or sheathing. They typically have the blade on the left side of the machine, to make watching the blade path easier when cutting parallel to the edge of a wide sheet of plywood.
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Blade Slips Off

My blade was coming off like described above and I just fixed it. The wheels that hold the blade should not wobble on their axles. If they wobble you need to tighten the axle screw on the opposite side from the wheels. The drive wheel is easy, you can see it. The front wheel is more trouble to get to, because the screw is covered by the blade tensioner housing.You will have to remove the front wheel and the tensioner to slide the housing forward to get to the axle screw. You will need various sizes of torque screwdrivers and there is a small snap-ring holding the wheel on the axle. It's simple job and only took me about 20 minutes fiquring it out as I went.Next time I might just drill a hole through the tensioner cover to insert a screw driver. The screws are the same on both the front and rear wheels. But, it's fixed now and works great again.
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Any way to take apart cemented pvc drain pipe

If the drain is slow or stopped up, i use a high powered drain opener from ace hardware called "liquid fire" it is different from drano and all that other ****.
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I have a electric chop saw I use for gutting 41 x

David, If the only variable is the material and not different blades, different operators, different feed rates --- then the variable is just that, the material. Abrasive cutoff wheels actually work best on somewhat hard materials. They will make big burrs (this is known as galling) when used to cut softer material. And once a wheel starts to do this, it will tend to load up (just like fine sandpaper does when sanding a painted surface) - and this loading up will cause more galling and poor performance. You might be able to intervene by dressing the wheel. You might be able to do that with a carbide tool insert held in locking pliers. The variability of your galvanized channel can be come from the steel itself being softer sometimes, but might be mostly due to the varying thickness of the zinc plating (which is what galvanized is). Zinc is very soft. I hope you find this helpful. Al Kupchella
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Cutting 45's on my Dewalt 744

I don't know why it's rubbing, did you try the small one to see if it is different in some way? How about the stop screw, is it 45 degrees or more? Check it with your speed square. And yes, make a custom plate out of plywood. Which way does the blade tilt? Left is best, locking your work against the fence is the worst idea I have ever seen, (delta) It sounds like the big plate is for a dado blade.
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Table Saw Blade Won't Cut Straight

Inside the saw, on the end of the trunnion is a stop that is adjustable to zero the saw in to exactly 90 degrees. Either there is sawdust or something accumulated there or it needs to be adjusted. You say you cleaned it out, So you'll need to unplug it an have a look up in there. See how there's a geared piece of steel that moves when you crank the saw over to 45 degrees. Usually there's a bolt or stud with a locking nut on it, either on the trunnion itself or the lower surface of the table top. You need to break the nut loose and screw the bolt in or out to adjust, then crank the saw over to hit it, check for square with a known square, crank it all the way out of the way and readjust, etc. Until you get it right. Make sure to tighten that lock nut when you're done. I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread. If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take a moment to kindly rate this post....thanks!
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