Guide :Saws : Saws

Burgess BBK20 I can not keep a bandsawblade on my machine .It will run and track with a sanding belt but not with a b/saw blade

Posted by John Walpole on Dec 23, 2008

Research, Knowledge and Information :

How to Improve Your Bandsaw's Shop Production with ...

... a phenomenon common to virtually every band saw where the blade doesn’t track exactly ... on the band saw, I can keep it ... my machine on wheels lets me ...
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Setting Bandsaw Blade Tension - FineWoodworking

Setting Bandsaw Blade Tension ... I’m going to give you some practical ideas on tensioning blades so that you can adjust your saw for ... I keep the tension low ...
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My Favorite Band Saw Blade - Popular Woodworking Magazine

Chris Schwarz talks about his favorite band saw blade, ... PM band saw, etc.). They will not run Fram and stay ... but it has changed my bandsaw into a resawing machine.
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Troubleshooting a Wandering Blade Problem - WOODWEB

A portable band-saw mill owner gets help ... So much sawdust has to spill over the blade to keep the board from ... My machine has a 42 hp turbo Kubota ...
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Getting started with Hand Laid Track - Model Railroader ...

Getting started with Hand Laid Track ... Vacuum up the sanding dust and any excess ballast. ... and then sawed the flange ways out with a hack saw blade ...
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RIKON Power Tools 50-151 Belt with 5" Disc Sander, 1" x 30 ...

RIKON Power Tools 50-151 Belt with 5 ... the motor bogged down with the least bit pressure and could not keep the belt on track. ... but the sanding belt and a ...

Urethane Band Saw Tires-Fits 12" Bandsaw | Rockler ...

CNC Machine Accessories; Saw Blades; ... Urethane Band Saw Tires - Fits 12" Bandsaw; ... I couldn't keep a blade on it. I could not get replacement tires for it.
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CRL Diamond Band Saw - Power Band Saws -

C.R. LAURENCE DTB3000 CRL 110 Volt Diamond Band Saw. The CRL Diamond Band Saw can clean ... to keep the blade ... to run the table over a large stationary belt ...

Suggested Questions And Answer :

Blade tracking for diamond laser 3000 - blade keeps coming off regardless of how many times I set knobs

I have a Diamond Tech 3000 and had the very same problem, I contacted manufacturer who sent me two new wheels, after fitting I never had a problem again. the old wheels were not balanced
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How do I adjust the blade to stay on?

There are some few things you need to check on your band saw. First, make sure you have installed the blade properly. Second, proper spacing between the blade and the guides. Third, blade should track well. Fourth, band saw blade should not be over or under tensioned. Another tip, try to install a new blade or new tires. Also, read some articled on or watch the Alex Snodgrass' band saw video set up.
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Model #113.24201 The saw blades come off and take the rubber tracking wheels off in the process. Have tried all recommended adjustments from owners manual.  Have tried resetting all thrust guides, and blade guides along with top tracking screw.  Have also tried several different blades.  It will appear to track fine until you start it and let it run shortly the blade will work either to the inside or outside of the top or bottom wheel and come  off taking the rubber with it.

It's not tracking correctly. I've not worked on one of those little saws since a shop mate had a black & decker model about 15 years ago, but I'm guessing there's a problem with the tires themselves. They are either not seating properly, causing the blade not to ride correctly, or the blade tension is all wrong, (or some combination of the two). But I have never seen tires get pulled off by a mistracked blade; that alone sends up a big flag for me. There is another post I located with a similar problem with the same saw, so maybe Sears had some issues with some of the tires, but apparantly the forum that hosted it has taken it down, so I can't tell you what her results were. I'd suggest, since you've gone through all the obvious, that you might get some quality replacement tires for a start, check the bearings on the wheels for play. If that doesn't help, you may have exhausted the capacity of that particular saw. I remember getting that little B&D dialed in occasionally, but it would only work for relatively thin cuts, and eventually we pretty much gave up on it and used it only for installations. Good luck. I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread. If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!
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Saw runs great but once I push the blade into concrete the blade just stops but engine runs like it's still cutting-no boggin out?

Make sure the blade is attached correctly. It sounds like it is not secured.
Read More At : K760 Cut-off Saw,2-cycle Gasoline,wet/dry Cut 2ldt6...

Porta Band saw blade jumps off

I had this problem on a used model 725 that I bought. Apparently the rubber tires on the drive wheels develop a bit of a memory after sitting for a while with tension on the blade. I tried cleaning the tires to no avail. Then I removed both tires, flipped them over and re-installed. Still not fixed. Then I put only one back to the original position and the problem was solved. Other than the frustration of trying several times, I was out nothing and I got quite proficient at taking the blade in and out. The saw has worked fine ever since. I hope this simple (and free) solution works for you.
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Does the bandsaw blade fit over the drivebelt .or run along side it on the metal rim

It runs along on the band saw wheel.
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I have a star diamond lapidary machine for cutting and polishing

Barranca Diamond Products Inc. took over Star Diamond a couple of years back. You can reach Barranca at 310-523-5867. They are located in Gardena, CA. www.barrancadiamond.comFrom your description, it sounds like a combo unit which would require a 1/3 HP thermal protected 1,725 RPM motor. To see their new one click hope this helps and good luck!
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I have a Rok chop/Mitre saw and it runs,but as soon as the blade contacts the material the blade stops and the motor carries on and once you shut off the power the blade spins on and stops when it's ready. Can anyone tell me how to diagnose whether it is the clutch or a belt? Thanks

I think of a wear of the armature / drive and worm drive gear
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I have a Delta 36-600 contractor saw that has been a great performer for the past 10+ years. But now it's got a problem that we can't figure out or fix.I work primarily with acrylic plastic. The problem started with resistance when cutting and the signs of a worn belt. Replaced the belt but the "bogging down" continued. Thinking perhaps the bearings were worn out in the original motor, we replaced the motor with a new direct driven, no belt, motor. Still boggs down. Upon further inspection we noticed that the drag was caused by the material binding the rear of the blade. Enters the blade fine but as the material exits the blade, it is pressing against the rear of the blade. The largest piece I cut is 24" square and it can be tough to get the entire length through. Checked the alignment of the fence and it was only slightly off. Aligned the fence and the material still binds the rear of the blade. We have tried a variety of blades (designed for plastics) that worked fine before, plus newly sharpened blades and brand new "non-melt" blades for plastics. After making several adjustments and no fix, it is the theory of my "saw specialist" that the problem lies with the acrylic, expanding due to heat. He believes the problem has to be with the material...something has changed in the composition... because there is nothing more to check or replace on the saw. I'm not convinced. I've checked the material and the blade after cutting and neither are hot. In addition, I've cut other material and the rear of the blade still binds. Plus, when trimming/cutting small pieces, 5" in width, once it cuts I can exit the blade from the front instead of the rear. After cutting these small pieces they clear the front of the blade fine but will not clear the rear of the blade without binding. If the acrylic is expanding after cutting and his theory is correct, shouldn't it also bind these small pieces in the front? I think how the blade is contacting the material is out of alignment. Any ideas on what's causing the binding of material, rear of the blade only? What is left for us to check?

Use an compressed air to cool plastic as it passes through rear of blade.This will also remove debris and cool material.
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The mtor electrically connects with its own plug to the switch unfront. When i turn it own, it starts to run, with the blade turning. then it slows down and kicks off the breaker in my garage. I checked th belt, it is loose, even after tightening it up, it stills does this.The motor turns freely and so does the blade and pully. What do I need to do?

1. try again to tightening the belt and check the alignment of pully or maybe you should replace the belt, if the belt wear or tear.
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