Guide :Saws : 4000 - 07 Electric Table Saws

Smoking My Bosch 4000 table saw will start smoking enough to fill the room when using it on pretty much any wood. I does not smell like electrical burning and the smoke is very thick. The smoke comes from the bottom of the unit through the front area. The saw cuts the wood just fine during this smoking. I just need it to do so with out the smoking. It is under a year old and I do not use it very much at all. I am doing some remodeling to my own home and not working professionally with it. Any help or insight is greatly appreciated. Bobby

Posted by sellit2u on Jan 11, 2009

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Smoking My Bosch 4000 table saw will start smoking enough to fill the room when using it on pretty much any wood. I does not smell like electrical burning and the smoke is very thick. The smoke comes from the bottom of the unit through the front area. The saw cuts the wood just fine during this smoking. I just need it to do so with out the smoking. It is under a year old and I do not use it very much at all. I am doing some remodeling to my own home and not working professionally with it. Any help or insight is greatly appreciated. Bobby


Couple things I would look for first the condition of the blade do you see any buildup around the teeth like something has burnt on it. Also look into the area around the blade under the table (unplug saw first) to make sure that something hasn't dropped into it rubbing blade causing smoke. Also turn the blade by hand to make sure turning freely. The smoke could possibly be coming from a bearing. If it less than a year old Bosch has a pretty good warranty and you might look into that also. Let me know and I will dig deeper into it.
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Table saw smokes.


Sears will refund you. Take it back!
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Hitachi Table Saw Quit Working


Sounds like you've got problems with the armature commutator or one of the bearings is bad. Your best bet is to take it out and visit a local motor repair shop to asses the problem. A new motor could be the answer but at some heavy duty expense.
Read More At : 10", Table Saw with Stand, Powerful 2.6A Motor with Ste...

Motor has started t0 smoke and trips circuit breaker


On the motors I deal with there is a series of numbers that identify the shaft size, hp and all other requirements. I would try and contact a local Grainger and see if they can help, if not try in the yellow pages for a motor repair shop in your area and sometimes they can get you one. Good luck
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Blade isn't cutting well. It smokes and the wood rides up as it is cutting. The saw is 14 yrs old but blade has only been used a few times. I think it needs alignment. Can I do that myself?


You should be able to adjust the fence but every model is different so I probably cannot tell you exactly how. My Biesemeyer fence has 2 set screws on front guide of the fence for parallel adjustment to the blade (this fence is a single piece fence). I had a Sears contractor saw that had 2 bolts on the top of the fence that needed to be loosened, the fence moved parallel, and the bolts tightened again (the Sears fence was a bolt together fence). Whatever fence you have I would think the adjustment would be on the front part of the fence. I would remove the fence (the fence only, not the guides) from your table saw and take a close look at it for any adjustment screws (the Biesemeyer set screws are somewhat hidden) . If the fence bolts together you will probably need to loosen the bolts to do the alignment. There is a quick check you can make to verify the problem is the fence not being parallel to the blade because your problem could also be caused by a bent saw blade arbor (the saw blade would wobble as it turns) ø Lock your fence down and measure from the front of the blade to the fence and from the back of the blade to the fence. These measurements should be within 1/32” (ideally is should be zero). ø If the fence passes the test above, you can see if your saw blade shaft is bent by sliding the fence very near the blade, locking the fence down, and rotation the blade by hand (unplug the saw first). If the blade rubs on the fence as it rotates then you could have a bent arbor, a bad arbor bearing, or a bent blade.
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Wood feels like its "pinching" between blad and fence


Possibly the problem is the wood itself. If it is burning both sides of the kerf then it is probably that your kiln dried wood is picking up moisture on the outside from the environment which causes it to bow inwards as it passes the saw. I have even had this problem with plywood. Just keeping timber in an unheated workshop for a while can cause the problem but after a few months it should equalize and the problem disappear at about 15% moisture content. (kiln dried timber should be nearer 10%) Cut part way along a plank and then mesure the kerf at the end of the plank and at the front of the cut. if it is significantly narrower at the plank end then that is your problem. These hard woods you mention are always a problem to cut on domestic saws at usually a maximum of 2000 watts . I use a 4500 watt motor in my saw and it will still complain at dry oak, ash and maple etc. especially if they are moving a bit as I cut them. Before I retired I had a panel saw half as powerful again as that and still those hard woods could cause trouble.
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Blade Alignment? While ripping a piece of wood on my Dewalt 744 table saw the blade and splitter become tight against the finished side of the board. the long the piece the tighter it gets. the blade and fence seem to be parallel. but some thing is misaligned. The piece of wood jams in between the fence and the blade at the back of the blade. Tried to adjust the two 10 mm bolts but that didn't help. The fence is perfectly square with the miter gauge slot. When I move the fence to the blade, the fence hits the back of the blade with a 3/16 inch gap remaining at the front of the blade. I thought these saws were calibrated at the factory. Can someone help?


Ok yep your blade is out of alignment with the fence. It is closer to the fence at the rear than the front. You need to make the modification or adjustment to your fence, if it allows that, and then worry about the miter slots later (which should be adjusted miter slot to blade, not miter slot to fence). You might be able to adjust the miter slot to blade by moving the actual table and then securing witht he table mount bolts. Check your manual for how to align the fence. You do want to fix that though as it can be potentially dangerous and result in kickback of the workpiece which is a rather SCARY thing, and very dangerous.
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Table Saw Blade Won't Cut Straight


Inside the saw, on the end of the trunnion is a stop that is adjustable to zero the saw in to exactly 90 degrees. Either there is sawdust or something accumulated there or it needs to be adjusted. You say you cleaned it out, So you'll need to unplug it an have a look up in there. See how there's a geared piece of steel that moves when you crank the saw over to 45 degrees. Usually there's a bolt or stud with a locking nut on it, either on the trunnion itself or the lower surface of the table top. You need to break the nut loose and screw the bolt in or out to adjust, then crank the saw over to hit it, check for square with a known square, crank it all the way out of the way and readjust, etc. Until you get it right. Make sure to tighten that lock nut when you're done. I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread. If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take a moment to kindly rate this post....thanks!
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I have a General Int'l 10" table saw, model 50-185, about 5 years old. In the last few days I have noticed a loss of power. The first time, I had done a rip cut with the blade tilted at an angle. It made the cut okay, but when I started the saw up to do the next cut, the motor sounded different, the blade started out slow, gradually picked up speed, but not to normal, and the motor slowed significantly with any load, even slowly feeding the wood (soft wood 1X board). I took off the belt guard and noticed that the arbor pulley was loose, and it looked like it had rubbed against the inside of the belt guard. I tightened the set screw, and put the saw blade back to veetical. I let the saw "cool off" for a couple hours, came back and it seen to start up fine. The next day, I made a couple rip cuts, soft wood, then oak, and after three cuts, the saw did the same thing, slowing down, stopping under any kind of load. That's where I'm at. Burned out motor?


Sounds like it but does it have a capacitor (start/run)--what model/type motor is it? and go from there.
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