Guide :Saws : DW744S 10" Portable Table Saw with Stand

How to set fence square to blade

Do not have owners manual

Research, Knowledge and Information :

How to Set Up Your Table Saw for Perfect Cuts | Woodworking

How to align your table saw miter gauge, blade and fence. ... Check your owner’s manual to see how to set the blade for square. Set the fence cursor Photo 8.
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Paralleling a Table Saw Fence - YouTube

Jul 28, 2009 · George Vondriska shows us how to parallel your Table Saw Fence. ... Paralleling a Table Saw Fence ... how to align a tablesaw blade ...

Table Saw Basics - Alignment - LLC

Table Saw Basics – Part One Setup ... is best to set the blade angle using a good square or bevel ... front side of the fence, set the “0” to the needle and ...
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Essential Table Saw Tune-Up Tips - The Spruce

Table Saw Tune-Up Tips Share Pin ... Check the Blade for Square. Now that the fence and blade are both parallel to the miter slot (and thus, ...
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Squaring a tablesaw blade - YouTube

Aug 02, 2009 · American Woodworker editor Tom Caspar shows how to properly square a tablesaw blade. ... Squaring a tablesaw blade ... How to set up an ...

How to Square a Miter Saw | eHow

A miter saw uses a large circular blade secured to a cutter that lowers into the material by pulling down on a handle. The material sits against a fence and rests on ...
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How to Set Up a Bandsaw - FineWoodworking

How to Set Up a Bandsaw ... Bandsaw table set up; Setting your fence for square ... but changing the blade is another matter.
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How To Use A Table Saw: Cross Cutting | The Family Handyman

How to Use a Table Saw: Cross Cutting. ... Set the miter gauge perfectly square to the ... board just past the end of the extension fence so the blade will just ...
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Building Your Own T-Square Style Table-Saw Fence

Building Your Own T-Square Style Table-Saw Fence By ... although the design of the T-square fence is simple, ... (fitted with a metal cutting blade) ...
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Suggested Questions And Answer :

Blade Alignment? While ripping a piece of wood on my Dewalt 744 table saw the blade and splitter become tight against the finished side of the board. the long the piece the tighter it gets. the blade and fence seem to be parallel. but some thing is misaligned. The piece of wood jams in between the fence and the blade at the back of the blade. Tried to adjust the two 10 mm bolts but that didn't help. The fence is perfectly square with the miter gauge slot. When I move the fence to the blade, the fence hits the back of the blade with a 3/16 inch gap remaining at the front of the blade. I thought these saws were calibrated at the factory. Can someone help?

Ok yep your blade is out of alignment with the fence. It is closer to the fence at the rear than the front. You need to make the modification or adjustment to your fence, if it allows that, and then worry about the miter slots later (which should be adjusted miter slot to blade, not miter slot to fence). You might be able to adjust the miter slot to blade by moving the actual table and then securing witht he table mount bolts. Check your manual for how to align the fence. You do want to fix that though as it can be potentially dangerous and result in kickback of the workpiece which is a rather SCARY thing, and very dangerous.
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Cuts not square-bevel adjustment

Here's something to try. Get a dial indicator or a drop indicator to measure the blade wobble. Clamp the indicator to your miter gage or use a magnetic base or whatever. Position the indicator so that it contacts the side of the blade as near the outside diameter as possible, then rotate the blade by hand. If there is any warp to the blade, or bend in the arbor, or something out of square where the blade mounts on the arbor, this will pick it up. If that is all good, maybe you have a couple of teeth that were miss-sharpened and are sticking out to the side more than they should (causing a virtual wobble at the tooth end). You could position the indicator on the side of a tooth, then slowly rotate the blade backwards looking for the max reading on each tooth. You should repeat this on the other side of the blade too. Total wobble should only be a few thousandths. Good luck!
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How to set fence square to blade.dw705

First if you need an owners manual go to and in the middle of the page at the bottom type in your model number and get a copy. OK for setting the fence square, first unplug the tool and make sure that the blade isi good. Get an accurate square. Set the table at 0 or 90 degree for a straight cut depending on your scale. Make sure the blade is straight up and down on the bevel before starting. What you want to do is loosen up the 4 bolts on the back side of the fence enough so you can move the fence with some resistance. Set your square on the left side of the blade and pull or push the fence till it is square with the blade, snug up one of the bolts and then put the square on the right side and check for square, you might have to move it some if square snug up one bolt and recheck the left side again, if ok tighten both bolts and recheck the right side and repeat if OK. I sometimes recheck 3 or 4 times just to make sure. Also I should have mentioned about putting a straight edge across the length of the fence to make sure that it is not bent in some way thereby not allowing you to square the blade. Let me know if you need any more help
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How to change mitre saw blades - Dewalt DW744S 10" Portable Table Saw with Stand

You need to remove the "throat" plate and raise the blade fully. UNPLUG SAW FIRST there are 2 wrenches on the side one for the hex nut and the other for the arbor, the threads are standard. let me know if you need more assistance
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I have a DeWalt 744 table saw with its fence out of line with the blade. One of the two hex bolts in the back used to adjust it appears to be stripped out and I cannot tighten it. When I line up the fence and tighten the one good bolt, the fence snaps back into its out of line position as soon as I unlock it. How can I fix this?

You are going to have to tap out the threads of the stripped bolt to the next larger size and then put in a new bolt. I did the same things to mine, i was overtightening the bolts.
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Blade Height How can i know what is the best blade Height for my DW744S 10" table saw?

Basic saw safety dictates that the blade should barely clear the thickness of the material being sawed. This has saved my fingers more than once, Also, make sure you use a push stick for thin rips. They are a lot easier to replace than fingers, and are easily made from scrap stuff. As for the blade diameter, you want to use a 10" blade, but on occasion a smaller blade can be used, just be sure the arbor doesn't rub against the bottom of the table. Dado blades for 10" saws are usually only about 8" in diameter.
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My jet table saw has excessive vibration.

Sounds to me like the arbor bearings have too much play, or one of them has failed. With the saw unplugged, see how much play there is in the blade by pushing it side to side and up and down. Remove the blade and grab the arbor with your hand and see if you can move it any direction. You should have virtually zero play. If that is the problem, major disassembly is required. If you have a pair of reasonably precise calipers and you get the bearing removed, there are several bearing distributors with good websites to find replacements pretty cheap. If only one bearing is bad you should replace both anyway. Good luck!
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Wood feels like its "pinching" between blad and fence

Possibly the problem is the wood itself. If it is burning both sides of the kerf then it is probably that your kiln dried wood is picking up moisture on the outside from the environment which causes it to bow inwards as it passes the saw. I have even had this problem with plywood. Just keeping timber in an unheated workshop for a while can cause the problem but after a few months it should equalize and the problem disappear at about 15% moisture content. (kiln dried timber should be nearer 10%) Cut part way along a plank and then mesure the kerf at the end of the plank and at the front of the cut. if it is significantly narrower at the plank end then that is your problem. These hard woods you mention are always a problem to cut on domestic saws at usually a maximum of 2000 watts . I use a 4500 watt motor in my saw and it will still complain at dry oak, ash and maple etc. especially if they are moving a bit as I cut them. Before I retired I had a panel saw half as powerful again as that and still those hard woods could cause trouble.
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