Guide :Saws : 10" Miter Saw LS1030N

Blade not cutting square

The blade is not perpendiculator to the base and is out enough to throw out joint miters.

Research, Knowledge and Information :


Table saw not cutting square. - Woodworking Talk ...


I have squared my saw many times going from the miter slot to blade and then from the blade to my fence with a large framing square and everything is lined up. I'm ...
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Cutting Square on the Table Saw - WOODWEB


Cutting Square on the Table Saw ... accuracy of the fence in terms of parallel to the blade does not have to be perfect as long as ... ensure a square cut, ...
Read More At : www.woodweb.com...

Essential Table Saw Tune-Up Tips - The Spruce


Table Saw Tune-Up Tips ... An improperly tuned table saw will not only cut inefficiently, ... With the blade square to the table, ...
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I can't get my miter saw to cut perfectly square | Fine ...


I can't get my miter saw to cut perfectly square. ... to get it perfectly square to the blade cut. ... a 5 degree negative taper and got a better cut, but, not square.
Read More At : forums.finewoodworking.com...

The Circular Saw – Making it Square « remodeling for geeks


The Circular Saw - Making it Square. ... Cutting things square in the beginning is the best way of getting your ... Every so often recheck the blade. Happy Cutting.
Read More At : www.lemurzone.com...

Miter Saw Tune-Up | THISisCarpentry


To check if your saw is cutting square to ... and perfecting your miter saw tune-up ... wood at the top of the cut, then the blade is not in the same plane ...
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Bandsaw blade not cutting straight.... - Practical Machinist


Bandsaw blade not cutting straight.... Okay, the blade is dull, that I know. ... If the fixed jaw is not out of square then the bearings are not adjusted correctly.
Read More At : www.practicalmachinist.com...

Make Perfect Cuts With Your Miter Saw


Follow these simple set up tips to tune up your miter saw in order to make perfectly square cuts and cutting ... cut so that the blade ... Miter Saw for Perfect Cuts ...
Read More At : www.wwgoa.com...

10 Circular Saw Secrets: DIY GUY - Popular Mechanics - How ...


Oct 29, 2009 · 10 Circular Saw Secrets You Should Know ... Making perfectly square crosscuts with a ... Now that's not a concern when cutting wall studs or ...
Read More At : www.popularmechanics.com...

Suggested Questions And Answer :


Cuts not square-bevel adjustment


Here's something to try. Get a dial indicator or a drop indicator to measure the blade wobble. Clamp the indicator to your miter gage or use a magnetic base or whatever. Position the indicator so that it contacts the side of the blade as near the outside diameter as possible, then rotate the blade by hand. If there is any warp to the blade, or bend in the arbor, or something out of square where the blade mounts on the arbor, this will pick it up. If that is all good, maybe you have a couple of teeth that were miss-sharpened and are sticking out to the side more than they should (causing a virtual wobble at the tooth end). You could position the indicator on the side of a tooth, then slowly rotate the blade backwards looking for the max reading on each tooth. You should repeat this on the other side of the blade too. Total wobble should only be a few thousandths. Good luck!
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I AM TRING ADJUST THE PARALLELISM OF THE SAW BLADE TO THE MITER GAGE GROOVE PER THE DIRECTIONS IN THE MANUAL. USING A SQUARE IN THE GROOVE FROM FRONT TO BACK OF THE BLADE TOOTH MARKED WITH AN X. WHEN I MOVE THE SQUARE AND THE TOOTH MARKED WITH AN X TO THE BACK OF THE BLADE THERE IS A 1/8" GAP, THE REAR TRUNNION IS ADJUSTED AS FAR AS IT WILL GO IN THAT DIRECTION AND IS BOTTOMED OUT.I FORGOT TO MENTION I HAVE A CHRAFTSMAN 10" BELT DRIVEN WITH 3HP MOTER NODEL # 113.298842. HOW DO I CORRECT THIS PROBLEM? I BOUGHT THIS SAW USED AND AM IN THE PROCESS OF RESTORING IT. i WAS TOLD BY THE PREVIOUS OWNER HE CUT A LOT OF HARDWOOD WITH IT DOING PROJECTS.


OK here is where you need to look go to "managemyhome.com" and in the header under manuals click on it, type in your model number and it will redirect you to the manual, it is 72 pages long but the area you need is around page 54 and it tells in detail how to adjust the blade to the mitre slot. Let me know if you need more assistance
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How do you ulock the saw to pull up the blade so you can put the wood underneath to cut


Push down gently on the arm and reach around to the rear of saw with your right hand and pull retainer pin the arm should release and allow usuage of your saw.
Read More At : 10" Miter Saw LS1030N...

Problem appears to be the blade guard 'hanging-up' on the down cut. at the very beginning of the action the body of the saw sticks and only after briefly helping the guard up manually does the saw free up to allow the downward motion towards the base. is there an adjustment to the blade guard that can be done?


First make sure the blade guard is correctly tightened. then if that is correct you have a problem with the link bar and the center plate of the guard. they might be worn or not smooth, I generally try to sand both surfaces cleanly and apply a dry lubricant to them to ensure proper movement. If that does not work they would need to be replaced.
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Not getting true cuts on sliding miter saw.


Sounds like the blade isn't parallel with the sliding mechanism.
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My blade is not square to the table i,e if I make a 90deg cut, it is about 1/16 wider at the top of the board than it is at the bottom. I've lost my owners manual and was wowndereing holw I go about squaring it up. I have a 10 in Makita dual bevel sliding saw. Thanks


Set your saw square using a combination square if you have one. Then to to adjust the saw to stay square there should be a gold coloured nut that you can adjust on the right side below the lever you use to unlock the saw when setting what angles you want to cut. Either move it in or out to get the proper setting. Hopefully this answers your question.
Read More At : 10" Dual Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw...

Square up fence to blade - Makita 10" Miter Saw LS1030N


With the tool unplugged from power . u need a good square drop the blade down to cutting position place thesquare against the fence then slide it up to the teeth on the blade making sure u are against the teeth . if not square in the zero position on the scale undo the fixing bolts for the fence and adjust till the square shows no gap between fence and blade teeth . retighten bolts and check . plug in and make a cut . or u could just make cuts and move fence till get it right . i should add with straight edge make sure the fence itself is straight across its face. with one piece fences they can get bent. good luck.
Read More At : 10" Miter Saw LS1030N...

I have a Delta 36-600 contractor saw that has been a great performer for the past 10+ years. But now it's got a problem that we can't figure out or fix.I work primarily with acrylic plastic. The problem started with resistance when cutting and the signs of a worn belt. Replaced the belt but the "bogging down" continued. Thinking perhaps the bearings were worn out in the original motor, we replaced the motor with a new direct driven, no belt, motor. Still boggs down. Upon further inspection we noticed that the drag was caused by the material binding the rear of the blade. Enters the blade fine but as the material exits the blade, it is pressing against the rear of the blade. The largest piece I cut is 24" square and it can be tough to get the entire length through. Checked the alignment of the fence and it was only slightly off. Aligned the fence and the material still binds the rear of the blade. We have tried a variety of blades (designed for plastics) that worked fine before, plus newly sharpened blades and brand new "non-melt" blades for plastics. After making several adjustments and no fix, it is the theory of my "saw specialist" that the problem lies with the acrylic, expanding due to heat. He believes the problem has to be with the material...something has changed in the composition... because there is nothing more to check or replace on the saw. I'm not convinced. I've checked the material and the blade after cutting and neither are hot. In addition, I've cut other material and the rear of the blade still binds. Plus, when trimming/cutting small pieces, 5" in width, once it cuts I can exit the blade from the front instead of the rear. After cutting these small pieces they clear the front of the blade fine but will not clear the rear of the blade without binding. If the acrylic is expanding after cutting and his theory is correct, shouldn't it also bind these small pieces in the front? I think how the blade is contacting the material is out of alignment. Any ideas on what's causing the binding of material, rear of the blade only? What is left for us to check?


Use an compressed air to cool plastic as it passes through rear of blade.This will also remove debris and cool material.
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